Echoing completely what Ritchie has posted, one has to take the hoist seriously. Its not just the hoist but its attachment to wherever you hang it from and the strops you use.
I used a 1 Tonne Chain Hoist (Screwfix part number 46883). Electric hoists have a reputation for all happening too quickly – more like dropping the boat than lowering it. For strops and certified shackles, I got these from Load Straps and Slings http://www.lss1.co.uk/. The hoist is hung within the loft space above the garage on a specially constructed frame to spread the load over two rafters – I needed the extra height so that when lifting, the hoist hook doesn’t crunch up against the bottom of the chain hoist – also, so that the bit of chain you pull on leads outside the boat at a reasonable angle. Width of the strops is a compromise; obviously needs to be strong enough; narrow enough to get into the hooks and shackles; wide enough not to chafe on the boat
Its all worked well, nothing has collapsed. Keel has been taken off and returned; I’m not going to claim that job is easy but its all controlled with a decent hoist. Also, the hoist got used for turning the keel over onto its painting frame – there was a ‘moment’ doing this turn, but everything held together and no bones where broken – the shock-load of the ‘moment’ would surely have demolished an improvised arrangement.
Tips: you’d be surprised how much the boat blows around, even in the wind with the garage door open – needs stabiliser ropes. Get the strops the right length and when you’ve found the balance points, mark the hull so you can tie the strops back in position repeatably – strops need to be tied for and aft
Last point: for sorting dings in the keel, I prefer to jack the boat clear of the trailer and put blocks under the tail of the keel; that way is all stable to leave while fillers and paint dry
Martin Stainsby (3912)
Sorry to totally bore you with rules and regs but this one is worth considering, if you lift a boat on slings then you should either attach the slings to a set of brothers (long chains which mean that the angle created by the slings is 90 degs or less as loads increase inwardly onto the hull exponentially the further you go above 90 degs.) or you fit a set of spreader beams just above deck level to take the compression load. If this is greater than 90 degs you risk damaging your boat due to compression loading.
Again I must say I would not work under a slung load whether it is suspended by hydraulics or by mechanical lifting device such as a chain block or pull lift as the slings can easily slip espescially forward due to the hull shape.
Believe it or not lifting is the biggest killer in the north sea and should not be fooled around with if you are unsure then you should seek professional advice.
Hopefully not bored everyone to tears
For those clubs that don’t have a crane, is anyone aware of a portable hoist that can be used to suspend a FF off its trolley for work on the underside? I imagine the sort of thing you use to pull an engine out of a car (or at least used to before cars became so complicated!)…
Mervyn Wright, Datchet Fleet Captain
We had some chatter on the Blog recently about the attraction that cranes might have over slipways at some Clubs. Indeed, to my surprise, we did find a few UK Clubs who crane already.
For Dragon craning, we had pretty big bits of crane which cost serious money – and would be too much for many FF Clubs to consider. And so I was delighted when Richard Blaquiere wrote in from Perth W.A. ….
I’ll try and get a picture of the FF crane at Freshwater Bay. I’ll also get some basic measurements. Height of the boom of the ground, and its length. I did a design of a small ff15 crane for our club, before they built the new facilty. It was very simple, similar to the small cranes they use to lift dingys off large boats. Remember a heavy 15 is 350 kgs. on weight 15 is about 315 kgs. Have a look on EBay for a small material lift, that has SWL (safe working load) of about 750 – 1000 kgs. The material lifts need 240v single phase power. ie stand power point. They all usually have a hand held pendant that controls the up / down of the hook. They are very cheap in Aust. I would think they also quiete cheap in the UK. The design I had done used one of these material lifts. The gantry was made from 150 x 50 x 3 RHS, and the base swivelled on a Wheel hub and a stub axel. All hot dip gal after fabrication.
I’ll see if i can find the sketch that i did.
cheers, Richard Blaquiere
Richard also pointed me at the type of motor that an FF crane would need. I was amazed to see that we’re only talking a couple of hundred pounds. This is what they look like… not large at all.
Did you notice this at the Dinghy Show?? It’s another take on the spinnaker hoist….
I suppose I quite like being able to see exactly what is happening, but I have a feeling that I don’t like this…. It’s good that it swivels, but it’s bad that it can flop to one side. Upon reflection I really like and appreciate now the Phil Evans method of rigging this up. I’ll have to take a photo for a future news item, but Phil for a start buries the cleat away out of sight under the console and closer to the centre of gravity. It’s both good and bad that you can’t see it, but in general good….
Then where this is mounted, Phil uses a spring loaded simple block. It’s hoistable from all angles and the line self-cleats out of sight. So slightly less to get tangled up. I’ll take some photos and show you the comparison and we can see what you think….
PS Am I seeing the photo properly? Does this look like the boat is numbered 3972?? So maybe around 2012 we hit the 4000 milestone!!! That’ll be a bit of a rush in itself. From a 2nd hand buyer point of view, does 3999 sound a lot older than maybe 4002??